The Right roars to life
Author: GrindTV.com
Ever been held down for 2 waves? Probably not, because 99.9% of people in that situation don't live to tell about it. The sheer ability to remain calm and conscious while the ocean attempts to tear you apart, stripping your oxygen as panic sets in, is an ability reserved only for the most confident and clinically insane of surfers.
Mark Mathews is one of these men. On a recent journey to "the Right" in rugged West Oz, Mathews recounted THREE two-wave-holg-downs. In one session. This one.
*update: apparently embedding this video doesn't work, click on the image to watch video.. it's worth the effort i promise..
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